The Honeybuns bakery in Dorset is small, but perfectly formed – and produces some of the finest, sweetest wheat and gluten-free cakes in the land. Zofia Falvey takes a bite out of sweet success.

Honeybuns is a small, creative bakery started in 1998 by Emma Goss-Custard, who began making cakes from her kitchen in Oxford. She then delivered her creations by bicycle to delis and cafes in and around the city.

The business took off and the bakery is now based in Naish Farm in Dorset. The ethos, however, has remained the same to this day – to find the best, natural ingredients possible and create all the cakes properly, in a true artisan way.

Many Honeybuns’ cakes are derived from Italian recipes handed down to Emma from her mother and grandmother, both of whom were ahead of their time in many ways. Polenta and ground nuts are used as a natural substitute to wheat flour.

“I grew up with my mum baking everything in a 1950s duck egg blue oil-fired Aga,” says Emma. “I’ve always loved cooking and baking with Agas – it was the first thing we put into the Dorset kitchen when we moved to Naish Farm in 2002. It’s always been a dream to have one.

I trial new products in our yellow Aga – such as our trial savoury traybake – then we have friends round to eat all the experiments and give their verdicts.

We aim to make the yummiest, naughtiest cakes possible,” says Emma. “The fact most of the range is gluten-free and all of it is wheat-free, is an added bonus. Much of the range compromises of old favourites with an up-to-date twist. For example, our millionaire’s shortbread is made with organic Dulche de Leche and a crunchy toasted almond and polenta shortbread. We also innovate and create utterly new products, such as our dairy-free and gluten-free Mooosh Bar.”

The cakes have won numerous national awards, including the Fortnum & Mason Supreme Champion, Best British Speciality and Best Speciality from the South West. Half of the current range are Great Taste Gold winners.

Delicacies from Honeybuns’ gluten-free range are deliberately entered into ‘wheat flour classes’ to prove gluten-free products can be utterly delicious and can more than hold their own amongst wheat alternatives.

Honeybuns do a lot more beside cake. “We take a holistic view of running our business,” says Emma. “We want to integrate into our local community and to give something back. We also want our company to be a safe and happy place for our team to enjoy working in.”

“We run a community café called the Bee Shack, where we invite guests to sample our range, have lunch and provide their all important feedback.”

The Bee Shack is a cosy little café based on the farm, hidden at the top of a no-through lane – you really do feel you’ve discovered a special secret place. Open only on the first Saturday of each month, the café is refreshingly unsophisticated, honest and simple. In fact until 2000 the building was used as a chicken house.

The café features an eclectic mix of old kitchen enamelware, a comfortable sofa and chairs of varying vintages. The numerous awards won by the Honeybuns team jostle for space on an old dresser and the walls are decorated with articles on cakes, local food and community news.

You can pop in for a coffee or a cup of tea (supplied by Reeds coffee roasters in Sherborne) and treat yourself to a polenta, lemon and ginger crunch or something equally as naughty. You’re never rushed – in fact the staff encourage you to linger longer and relax. Views include Bulbarrow Hill and if the weather is bright the Honeybuns bakery’s donkey, Joaney, will be out nibbling the grass.

“We also have a very green conscience and have initiated our own Bee Green initiative, which includes the recycling of our waste products, our wildlife sanctuary, and the re-planting of missing hedgerows and lovely deciduous trees around the farm. Our very own ‘Operation Goldfinch’ is now in its third year and we have started promoting the growth of thistle heads. They feed on the seeds.”

Honeybuns also holds an annual Bee Hop Festival, taking place this year on July 21, which is a celebration of all things musical, foody and artistic.

“We have lots of live bands playing anything from hip-hop to reggae, plus an art trail of sculptures and paintings and an all veggie café,” says Emma. “And all the monies are donated to local good causes.”

What started out as a little open house party in 2002 has now grown organically and gently into the annual popular Bee Hop Festival. – Emma describes it as “a laid-back gem of a festival.” All artists either give up their free time for free or perform at much lower than their normal rates. The Bee Hop also encourages artists to display their work in any media. The art trail includes: metal sculpture, oils, acrylics and carved stone.