Time was the words ‘gluten free’, ‘free from...’ or ‘contains no...’ on any packaging generally heralded worthy, well-intentioned and pretty woeful provender. That has changed over the last couple of years – the best mince pies I ate last Christmas for example – the best by a very long way – were from

Tru-free. Now having tasted some of the range made by Dorset bakers Honeybuns I wonder if my fear of ‘contains no...’ should be shelved (all their goods being without wheat, some gluten- and dairy-free too).

First in the tasting was the 85g Chocolate Caramel Shortbread. Unless you have the brain of a professional footballer when you read that product description you should think: indulgence. And this did not disappoint: thick caramel, thick chocolate and moist shortbread base (would never have guessed it was made with polenta). Decidedly sweet, without that overcooked edge that spoils some similar edibles, paradoxically though a little goes a long way – a few bites is filling – once finished it didn’t seem enough. They are not, however, free from guilt at more than 400 calories a time by my calculation. Maybe just once a month then.

Next up their Amondi, far lighter in texture and subtler – they are for grown-ups, the shortbread for offspring, hikers and lumberjacks. Pleasantly orangey, bit gooey inside and crisp outside, just the thing to accompany an espresso – better than biscotti (if they didn’t sound so hip would you ask for them?) and a bit more meaningful/interesting than most Amaretti. Again, however, some serious cals lurking in there.

To be fair (I seem to be turning into a footballer myself) the company puts warnings on the packaging about those two items being indulgent treats, which they evidently are. But nicely crafted treats; and decidedly toothsome.